15 Comments

what Miuccia did for the pleated skirt, Stella did for the silk camisole - I was never a 'jeans and a nice top' girl but oof was I obsessed with a pretty camisole in the 00s....tank tops and spaghetti strap camisoles were a 90s thing but I preferred her louchely sensual, outdoor-lingerie take on them at Chloé (or, well, the version I could afford on the high street) to the more minimal versions that prevailed before that. And based on the pics here, here's actually a case to be made that Stella was the one to kickstart the evolution of the camisole into what it became in the 00s (less sporty and minimal, more opulent and decorative). Chloé-wise I've always been more into Phoebe's work, but Stella was undeniably the one who made the label relevant again.

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author

Cha-ching...Lily, you perpetually nail it.

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Aug 29Liked by Liana Satenstein

Agree! Stella-era Chloe is the reason I still own a lacey floaty cam, and why I started wearing "feminine" tops with jeans. It was a very Kate Moss-Topshop-cool Brit girl thing.

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I went to Wildwood NJ after senior prom in 1999 and brought the runway shot to a boardwalk airbrush stall as a reference

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Aug 28Liked by Liana Satenstein

I remember that collection and what I remember about Stella at Chloe is that initially there was a lot of scepticism as to whether she could pull off designing for a major house rather than 'making clothes for her friends', which is kind of what her degree show was. I think what people often forget is that, like McQueen, she apprenticed at Savile Row, so her considerable tailoring skills meant her clothes had a effortless confidence about them. She was able to show trousers and a cami (essentially a sort of 'jeans and a nice top') because they were perfectly cut. That simplicity is possibly the hardest to pull off, but she did and everyone raved over those trousers. She also silenced all the naysayers. And, if I remember correctly, it was Stella who brought Phoebe Philo to Chloe - as her assistant.

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Aug 28Liked by Liana Satenstein

phoebe was doing cruise/resort collections if I remember correctly.

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author

"I think what people often forget is that, like McQueen, she apprenticed at Savile Row, so her considerable tailoring skills meant her clothes had a effortless confidence about them. She was able to show trousers and a cami (essentially a sort of 'jeans and a nice top') because they were perfectly cut." Make the people remember!

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Aug 28Liked by Liana Satenstein

I started interning at Chloe in Fall of '99 and the adjacency to Stella's designs as they came in and out of the offices was the stuff an 18 year old dreams who moved to the big city for a career in fashion were made of. thanks for shining a light on this special era.

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Aug 29Liked by Liana Satenstein

I guess this is the place and time to confess that I DIY-ed that “1969” tee by Stella 🪡 I saw it in Vogue, found a pink baby tee and sourced some gems and golden thread. Thanks for the dream that is this piece! 💌

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author

the dedication!

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Aug 29Liked by Liana Satenstein

Oh this takes me back!!

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Aug 29Liked by Liana Satenstein

The model in the photo with Stella is not Laetitia Casta, I think it’s Bridget Hall.

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author

Thank you! Noted and nixed.

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Aug 28Liked by Liana Satenstein

just saw a Gemini Stella Chloe t on trr praying someone snatched it up so I don’t have to

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Yes! Also there’s a freshness in the looks not being merched to hell with accessories, bags, jewellery, eyewear, etc etc.

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