An Obsession: Incredibly Inexpensive, Absolutely Elegant Tod’s Bags

The RealReal is bursting with these bags...

A Tod’s ad from 2001.

Talking about Tod’s bags! I do a monthly series for The RealReal called “The Comeback” in which I revisit an item or a label that we should be thinking about and buying. I research the history and then spit back a bit-sized video on Instagram and TikTok. I love the labels I tackle in The Comeback and I lurk them regularly. Some of the past The Comeback notables are the Balenciaga Motorcycle bag from years ago (before the boom), the YSL Mombasa (before the boom!), and the Marc Jacobs Stam bag (before the boom!). Anyway, here is the latest—and run, don’t walk to the Tod’s pieces that are on there.

Tod’s bags have long been in my carryall orbit. The leather is sturdy, rich, and has that homegrown Italian quality that makes you believe there is some ancient man tanning the leather himself. (Ok, in this case, there probably is.) I mentioned Tod’s bags years ago in a Vogue article “The Power of an Anonymous Anti-It Bag” after I saw an older woman who was so obviously New York and so obviously had a chunk of dough: “Her bag was fantastic, though unrecognizable. It wasn’t covered in a monogram or a teensy logo (as far as I could see). It was black, square, and discreet. But this anonymous medium-size piece was of obviously stellar quality: Kevlar-thick leather, a sturdy shape, and over-the-shoulder practical. Upon a second glance—or rather, a squinted stare—I realized it was a Tod’s bag with a vintage veneer. It was almost nondescript, yet, it was the most impactful purse I’ve seen in quite some time.”

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The RealReal is festering; absolutely teeming with a zillion great—and very inexpensive—leather bags from many brands. However, Tod’s bags stand out on the resale platform. There is a storied trustworthiness that comes with the House, perhaps because it is a real deal family label. Tod’s was founded in the early 1900s by cobbler Filippo Della Valle in northern Italy. As years went on, Tod’s was passed down from father to son, but it truly flourished when the grandson, Diego Della Valle, took over the business in 1978 with a vision to dress the hooves of international women. The suave kid was scrappy: In the mid-1980s, Valle came to New York with shoe samples in a trunk and set up a temporary showroom in a hotel room. In 1987, he opened a store and showroom in Soho.

An old Tod’s ad with the driving loafers. They eventually dropped the J.P. in 1999 because it was being referred to as just “J.P.’s”.

The Tod’s claim to fame has always been the driving loafer, which is the most Euro thing I’ve ever seen. They are fashioned out of suede or leather or canvas with a cleated sole of bulbous grips; 133 of the nubs to be exact. The footwear was both luxe and sporty and gained many fans, including Sharon Stone—a woman who is perpetually mentioned wearing the pebbled shoe during her ‘90s rise. And then there was Plum Sykes cruising around town in her “J.P. Tod’s” loafers. It is also worth noting that Tod’s produced shoes for Azzedine Alaia, Geoffrey Beene, Romeo Gigli, and Gianfranco Ferre back in the day. 

I found THIS bag! I snapped it up. I will stuff my laptop into it. Maybe a copy of War and Peace, too.

But the bags! Those feel a bit slept on. Sure, there is the structured Lady D bag that Princess Diana lugged around, but there are so many other stellar bags. If you read late ‘90s Vogue, the name Tod’s—then J.P. Tod’s—was everywhere, with actors and socialites toting them to premieres and whatnot. Leafing through an old issue, I spotted a Tod’s City bag, an absolutely handsome piece of work that boasts the most classic construction: a healthy rectangle fit for a laptop (or then, a portfolio) with handles in a perfect horseshoe shape allowing it to be worn over the shoulder. According to the glossy magazine, this bag took nine to twelve months to manufacture, partially because the Vachetta leather goes through an aging process that involves dyeing by natural sunlight under wooden planks. This dry-aged piece of carryall meat was originally $1,450. (Yes, the aforementioned Stone had one, too!) And sorry to everyone here, I found the same bag on The Real Real for $210—and, yes, I swiftly bought it. 

Tod’s “City” bag that I bought for $210; TheRealReal.com.

Don’t worry; there are more borse with that expensive patina clanging around on TRR. (Take 10 minutes and search “low to high,” then thank me later). You can spend under $250 to under $100 and walk away with a classic—or saucy!—piece with unmatched quality. Great early ‘00s shoulder bags with that girthy textured leather; a sensible tote but with a blinding shine for a mean exec vibe; to something itsy-bitsy in colorful suede. Sharon Stone, eat your heart out! 

Tod’s bag; $125; TheRealReal.com. A puffy shoulder bag is the best because you can stuff that thing…and make the teeny bag actually functional and not just arm candy

Tod’s tote bag; $125; TheRealReal.com. This tote would last a nuclear war…and make you look like a million dollars

Tod’s bag; $90; TheRealReal.com. I love this bag and these superfluous, early ‘00s pockets.

Tod’s tote, $164, TheRealReal.com. Truly a lugger. PS. This was originally $1260.

PS. You can shop a The Comeback “flash sale” for Tod’s on TRR. I don’t know what this means, but some great pieces are still on there. Also, watch the latest NEVERWORNS here.